Ford cars for sale in Fairplay, Colorado

1-1 of 1

Sort By

Ford : F-350 XLT Excellent Deal on 2000 F350 4X4 Dream Truck - 4” Lift, New Tranny, 7.3 Diesel

Ford : F-350 XLT Excellent Deal on 2000 F350 4X4 Dream Truck - 4” Lift, New Tranny, 7.3 Diesel

$9,850

Fairplay, Colorado

Year 2000

Make Ford

Model F-350

Category Pickup Truck

Mileage 230295

Posted Over 1 Month

I love this truck. It has been an excellent work truck that also turns heads. I get a lot of compliments from other truck owners. The four inch lift kit and large tires and mag wheels really give it some rugged good looks. It is a 2000 model so not as new as the $45,000 brand new F350s, but still a good looking truck. The truck has never been driven on salted roads. Here is Colorado the state doesn't salt the roads. As a result the truck body and undercarriage are practically rust free and very good condition. For a truck with this many miles, that is the most important thing of all. Its hard to find a good older truck that doesn't have a ton of rust starting to creep through the paint and into the frame. The truck was also re-painted to the current burgundy color at the auto body shop just two years ago, so the paint job looks nicer than average for a year 2000 truck. This is the crew-cab, so a back seat big enough to hold two child car seats plus another adult. The back doors swing open but you have to open them once the drivers or passenger door are already open. Truck seats 6 adults comfortably in the cab. WE ARE PACKING UP TO MOVE, SO WE NEED TO SELL THE TRUCK PRETTY QUICKLY. BECAUSE OF THIS, I AM PRICING IT TO SELL (Significantly below the blue book value), AND WE WILL TAKE THE BEST OFFER WE GET ON THE TRUCK IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS YOU WANT TO ASK ME ABOUT IT, FEEL FREE TO CALL ANYTIME. William (970) 319-4361 It has a couple of dents on the quarter panels behind the rear tires (both sides believe it or not), but the rest of the truck is in pretty good shape cosmetically. It has been a work truck, so there are a few small blemishes here and there, but overall impression is a really nice vehicle for an older truck. We just installed a Ford Factory Rebuilt transmission with 2 year warranty from Ford six months ago so that still has a year and a half under warranty. This was because I was starting to smell the tranny fluid getting hot when pulling big trailers up in the mountains. I wanted to do the truck up right for trailer hauling and had a special secondary transmission cooling radiator installed that keeps the tranny cooler than the standard factory system. Because I really did the transmission job properly rather than just a cheap tranny-shop rebuild, we spent $4500 on that project instead of the $2700 the cheaper place quoted us. Its a pretty cool set up that was recommended by my friend Erik, who is a full time diesel mechanic working on larger trucks. The tires have OK tread but not new. See photos. I also installed a new starter motor recently because I was getting some hesitation and clicking on the old starter. That is also under warranty for a couple years from either Napa or Auto Zone I think. I'll have to dig out the papers and see where I bought it from. The truck has 230295 miles on it right now, and I still drive it when I need a truck, so it may get a few more miles before the Ebay listing ends. From everything I've researched myself, and from Erik, that mileage is about half used up for the Ford F350 7.3 liter diesels. He says he's almost never seen one that needed major engine work before 350,000 miles (unless it was seriously abused) and most go to 500,000 with no problems. The Dodge Cummins are admittedly even better they can often go to 700K miles or 900K without problems, unless they are “dusted out” running the dusty roads of the fracking fields of Oklahoma, Texas and North Dakota. However, even though the Powerstroke engines don't last quite as long as the Cummins on average, they are still a really bombshell engine that do well, usually longer than most people drive their trucks. On the flip side, the undercarriage of the Ford trucks and the front ends is much better than on the Dodges. I've owned both over the years and pretty much all the guys on our local fire department here in Colorado also drive either Ford or Dodge diesel trucks, so together we have a pretty good body of experience with them. The ultimate truck is a Ford chassis with a Cummins re-power under the hood. This isn't that truck, but its still a pretty awesome machine. As with any older truck is is starting to have some minor issues that need taking care of. This one has a list here of about $1000 to $1500 worth of work that ought to be done to it soon. I am selling it mostly because we are moving to the east coast soon and I won't be hauling firewood or pulling horse trailers out there, so I think we will just keep our Subaru for the family and let this one go to a good home. Because we've been planning to move, and knew we would need to sell the truck before that, I haven't done some of the work on it that I probably should have done, but fortunately its all pretty cheap stuff to fix. The biggest thing that really needs to be done is a new U-joint. Because the U-Joint is bad, it makes a whining noise at certain RPMs and also there is a thud you can feel shifting between gears. I priced this with the best large diesel truck repair shop near me to find out what it would cost retail for someone else to get done (since my friend is a mechanic I usually don't pay retail). They said about $200 unless I want to have all the U-joints replaced at the same time as preventive medicine and then maybe $400 or so. That's Colorado pricing so I don't know what they charge other parts of the county. The truck can drive ok with the U-joint the way it is, but I really would recommend getting a new U-joint and taking care of that before driving it a long way. Here's a list of the other stuff that should be done when you can, but its more just annoyances than anything that will stop you from being able to drive the truck. The gear shifter lever on the steering column needs to be adjusted or tightened, because when you shift gears, Drive isn't on the “D” but instead the shifter is a little loose and rests in the position half a notch over toward 3rd low. I've heard this can be adjusted for a couple hundred bucks labor, but I also consulted the Ford dealership and they said they prefer to replace the aluminum sleeve inside the steering column so it doesn't happen again for another 200K miles, and that's about $500 to $700 depending on whether you go dealership or private shop. This is a bit bothersome but isn't serious other than when you look at the shifter its a bit over to the right of each gear. The light on the dash that tells you what gear you are in still functions perfectly. Both of the other Ford trucks I've owned in the past had this identical thing once they got up over 100,000 miles. The locking hub on the passenger front wheel is busted and needs a new hub. This keeps the truck from going into 4WD with the button on the dash. To use the 4WD you have to get out and turn the hub on the wheel the old fashioned way, and with the outer part of the hub busted this requires a wrench to turn it and its kind of stiff. I priced this and it costs about $250 for the new hub, plus installation labor. Truck needs a new handle latch on the tailgate. This should be pretty cheap, but until you fix it, its pretty hard to get the tailgate open. The key hole on the passenger door doesn't work so you have to unlock the truck from the drivers side and then unlock the passenger door by raising the button from the inside. Just means you have to jump inside and lean across the seats but its a bit annoying. Also, the power locks button is finickey and sometimes it works and sometimes you have to do like I said before and lead across and unlock the passenger door by hand. We've been living at 10,000 feet altitude where it often gets 30 below zero in the wintertime and there is a 12 and a half thousand feet pass I have to cross to go to work every day (Its beautiful scenery out here but with two little kids you can understand why we are moving to somewhere without 8 months of winter.) We have so little oxygen in the air here and so little atmospheric pressure that our water boils at about 170 degrees instead of 212. These sort of conditions make it hard to start diesels when they are cold. Anyway, if you live in Minnesota or above 8000 feet altitude in Colorado, the truck should probably have some new glow plugs installed. At this altitude, with the thin air and the cold, the truck still runs 100% once it is warm, but it takes a number of cranks on the glow plugs to get it started in the morning if I forget to plug in the oil warmer. Pretty much everybody I know up here that drives a diesel truck has to plug it in at night to get it started, but some of the guys with brand new trucks or who have recently replaced the glow plugs feel that really helps improve cold weather high altitude starting. That job if you want to get it done should be about $350 to $450. For the record, when we drive it at sea level and in a warmer climate like Maryland or Arkansas its always started without hesitation, every time. This has been a non-smoker truck for most of its life, so no weird odors inside, but there are a few minor blemishes on the interior here and there. Most notably are a few spider vein cracks in the vinyl of the fold down center front seat that doubles as a latching storage console. I will add some detail photos of stuff on Saturday. It was already sunset today when I went to try to take pix and I didn't get a chance to get good lighting for the interior and underside of the truck, so I'll add more photos hopefully on Saturday. The bed of the truck is protected by a bed liner that has a cut out in the center to allow for mounting a 5th wheel ball hitch. If you have any other questions about the truck or want to arrange to come see it in person, feel free to give me a call. You can also ask questions via the Ebay system. I'll try to respond within a day or two. William 970 319-4361

Trim Crew Cab