Cars for sale in Mayville, North Dakota

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Dodge RAM2500 SLT Diesel

Dodge RAM2500 SLT Diesel

$2,930

Mayville, North Dakota

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The A/C and heater work great. Non-smoker! The transmission shifts perfectly, the engine runs very strong, and the suspension is solid.

Mazda Mazda3 Sedan

Mazda Mazda3 Sedan

$2,975

Mayville, North Dakota

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Features include: front fog lamps, rear spoiler, leather wrapped steering. wheel with mounted controls, power doors, locks, and windows, 6 disc in-dash CD changer, power heated exterior mirrors and electronic stability / traction control.

HONDA Accord EX 2004

HONDA Accord EX 2004

$2,940

Mayville, North Dakota

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5 Speed Automatic - Honda Accord from 2004 with A/C - Sunroof - Heated Seats and More...

2001 BMW X5

2001 BMW X5

$3,648

Mayville, North Dakota

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Low miles considering the year (only 8k miles per year average). Automatic, Black and more. This vehicle has no known defects. The mileage represented on this vehicle is accurate.

HONDA Civic Si SuperCharged

HONDA Civic Si SuperCharged

$2,930

Mayville, North Dakota

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HONDA Civic Si Manual that runs excellent. Supercharged. Blue color. ACT Clutch Kit, Quaife Possi Differential, Spoon Cam Gears, Cold Ain In-Take...

2003 Toyota Camry LE Automatic

2003 Toyota Camry LE Automatic

$2,956

Mayville, North Dakota

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Camry with A/C that blows cold, Automatic, Good miles per gallon: city 23 / 32 highway mpg.

Nissan 300zx

Nissan 300zx

$2,945

Mayville, North Dakota

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1990 NISSAN 300ZX TURBO with original miles on the car. Contact me for full information.

2001 BMW 540I

2001 BMW 540I

$9,500

Mayville, North Dakota

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2001 BMW 540I 117,000 MILES GREAT CONDITION V8 AUTO WANT THE CAR GONE, TIME FOR NEW ONE!

BMW 330Xi 2002

BMW 330Xi 2002

$2,950

Mayville, North Dakota

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BMW 330Xi with Automatic Gearbox & Many Factory Extras - All Wheel Drive - Traction Control - Leather Seats - Heated Seats etc.

2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 4 cyl

2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 4 cyl

$2,965

Mayville, North Dakota

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2003 Jetta GLS TDI with automatic transmission. This vehicle have never been smoked in. Clean interior.

Chevrolet : Camaro Rally Sport 1970 Camaro RS with performance 350 and 4 spd. Muncie

Chevrolet : Camaro Rally Sport 1970 Camaro RS with performance 350 and 4 spd. Muncie

$5,000

Mayville, North Dakota

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1970 Camaro Rally Sport -- the best Camaro year of all time. Good news Motor: 350 cubic inch with performance camshaft, Holley 750 double pumper, single plenum intake, Mickey Thompson valve covers, HEI ignition. Transmission: 4 speed Muncie with spring-loaded Hurst shifter Chrome bumpers: front and rear bumpers are in excellent condition, with good looking chrome and no dents. (Are they aftermarket? I don't know.) More good stuff: GT steering wheel, rear spoiler, like new front tires (Guardsman 205/75 R14). Comes with two black 15" circle track wheels that have never been mounted, and two like new mufflers (2 1/4 inch if I remember right) that are not installed. Neutral news I am including a pair of used headers that I bought at a garage sale. I don't have a clue whether they fit, or even whether they're for GM motors. It has been about fifteen years since I've cranked the motor. I can't remember what the odometer says (I think it's in the 130,000 range; 140,000 is a conservative estimate). If I remember right, there's a dial you can turn to make the interior lights either green or orange. I didn't build the motor. I don't know whether the pistons or cylinder heads are stock or high-performance. When I used to drive it, it had a back-firing problem when decelerating. The car originally had an automatic transmission. In so far as you're interested in drag racing, you'll be happy to know that the rear shocks are tight and the front shocks are loose. Once upon a time, some of the exterior green was painted over with black spray paint that faded into a grayish color. Twenty years ago, I bought it for $2,000 from a guy who was willing to sell the motor by itself for $800, or the 4 spd. Muncie tranny by itself for $400. Bad news The rear axle is not posi-traction. No stereo No battery Windshield is cracked all over. Bondo peeling through on left and right rear quarter panels Dents on driver door Rear tires are worn out Some of the bolts that the lug nuts screw onto are broken (cheap fix, but hey) At least one of the plastic front grilles is broken. Hood has some bondo where it is dented, apparently from somebody shutting it while having a protruding air cleaner bolt. The rear of the driver-side bucket seat isn't fixed; so the seat lunges forward when you brake. I lost the key. When I lost the key, I rigged up two switches: one to turn on the ignition; the other to crank the starter. Without the key, the steering wheel was locked, so I put a screwdriver in the key hole and hit it with a hammer until it unlocked. I never bothered figuring out a way to open the trunk: hopefully there's no treasure! Rusty (see pictures) Speedometer doesn't work Some of the header pipes were a bit squished when I bought it, so I sawed a couple of them off, thinking it's better to be short than to be half-way constricted. Finally, about fifteen years ago, I bought a classified ad to sell it. The night before the ad ran, I filled on gas. It started right up (as always), but as I started driving the electrical system died: the motor quit, the lights went out, and the battery (which was new) died (a voltmeter showed it as having 0 volts). SAFETY PRECAUTION If you buy this car, please be safe. The motor is very powerful, and don't ask me how I know this but it can burn a lot of rubber. From a standstill, if you pop the clutch, the rear end will slowly move with very little forward acceleration, and the car's interior quickly fills up with smoke and stench from burnt rubber. When you drag race, it's a real thrill shifting into each subsequent gear, as the front end rises a bit each time: the tires don't lift off the ground, but it has a lot of torque and the front shocks are loose. Altogether, I'd say it drives like a car in a video game. BUT: remember how I unlocked the steering wheel after I lost the key? Recall: I put a screwdriver in the key hole and hit it with a hammer a bunch of times. Now, I have no idea whether my unlocking job was sufficient to make it never lock up again, so MAKE SURE IT'S FIXED SO THAT IT DOESN'T LOCK UP WHEN SOMEBODY'S DRIVING IT. Get a new ignition switch from a junkyard or something.