1996 Jeep Cherokee Cars for sale in Boise, Idaho

1-1 of 1

Sort By

Jeep : Cherokee Laredo 1992 jeep cherokee laredo xj 4.0 high output ho on 31 s with new everything

Jeep : Cherokee Laredo 1992 jeep cherokee laredo xj 4.0 high output ho on 31 s with new everything

$3,300

Boise, Idaho

Year 1992

Make Jeep

Model Cherokee

Category Suv

Mileage 149008

Posted Over 1 Month

Hi. Today I’m selling my 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo. I’ve put an enormous amount of time and money into this Jeep, but I recently acquired a 1999 Cherokee and I’ve decided I’m going to keep that one so this one has to go. This is an extremely long ad, but it’s much easier for me to put all the details in writing so that I don’t forget anything and so that you have all the details you might want before calling. This is the Jeep everyone is looking for. It has the bullet-proof 4.0 Liter High Output inline six cylinder engine, along with the Toyota-built AW4 4 speed automatic overdrive transmission and 4 wheel drive. Here is a list of equipment, both factory, and aftermarket upgrades on this Jeep: 4.0 Liter High Output Multi-Port Electronic Fuel Injected Inline 6 Cylinder Engine AW4 4 Speed Automatic Transmission with Overdrive Selec-Trac 4 Wheel Drive (NP242 Transfer Case) with 2Hi, 4Hi Part-Time (off road), 4Hi Full-Time (on road), neutral, and 4Lo Part-Time (Off-Road). This is not the normal Jeep 4wd system, this is an expensive optional system which provides the ability to use 4 wheel drive on the street if you choose. On-road grip is similar to a Subaru in this mode. Power Windows Power Door Locks Remote Keyless Entry with REMOTE START! (Works great!) Kenwood AM/FM/CD Stereo with Front Aux Input 8 Speakers COLD Air Conditioning! Center Console from a 1997 Cherokee (Provides cupholders!) Seats and Seat Belts from 1997 Cherokee (Much more comfortable than 1992) Overhead Console with Storage Bins and Info Center Digital Clock Cruise Control Tilt Wheel Full 6 Gauge Package rather than the basic 2 Gauge Package Rear Window Defroster Rear Window Wipe/Wash Full Size Spare Tire Roof Rack Trailer Hitch Trailer Brake Controller Removable Plastic Rear Cargo Liner Even that doesn’t tell the whole story of this Jeep though. I bought this Jeep a year and a half ago and decided to build the most bullet-proof and reliable Jeep I could. Within a 6 month timeframe, I went through every part of the car, inspecting, upgrading, replacing, or rebuilding basically every system in the car. As a result of all of this work, the Jeep is perfectly reliable, and is mechanically like new. Everything works as it should with no exceptions. I wanted to be able to drive this Jeep across the country or deep into the backwoods with no concerns over reliability or durability. Here is a list of what I did: Starting with a good running 2001 Jeep 4.0 engine, I tore it down to the short block and replaced basically everything except the block, crankshaft, pistons and rods. I installed all new Fel-Pro gaskets on the entire engine. This includes Head Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Oil Pan Gasket Rear Main Seal Front Crankshaft Seal Oil filter Adapter O-Ring I reassembled the motor using a rebuilt 1992 cylinder head, as they are known to be much higher flowing than the 2001 head and aren’t prone to cracking like the 2001 head can be. The new head uses later style viton valve guide seals for improved sealing, and the head was very mildly ported (gasket matched) before being assembled. I used the later 2001 valve cover so that the improved later valve cover gasket design could be used. I installed a brand new water pump, brand new harmonic balancer, and brand new flexplate, as well as a brand new revised exhaust manifold which has expansion bellows on the long tubes which prevents manifold cracking that is common on these Jeeps. Finally, I installed the stock intake manifold, which was also gasket-matched for improved flow. To cool the engine, I completely overhauled the cooling system. I started with an all brass radiator (much stronger than the stock aluminum and plastic radiator), which I had cleaned and tested by Mac’s Radiator to ensure it was perfect. Then I replaced every coolant hose on the Jeep and installed a new thermostat, fan clutch and radiator cap (along with the previously mentioned new water pump). Then, to improve things even more, I upgraded the electric fan to a 1997 Cherokee fan and then went to work improving airflow. Next is probably the most noticeable modification to the Jeep. I installed a pair of hood vents in the hood, which were sourced from a pair of Shelby Daytona Turbo coupes. These vents are bigger than the more commonly used LeBaron hood vents and provide much more airflow. Finally, I modified the front bumper with a grille opening and I mounted a custom transmission cooler inside the bumper, which allowed for more airflow for the trans cooler, and improved the air conditioning condenser and radiator cool air charge. The idea was to make this Jeep be able to run cool even on a 100 degree day, going uphill at 65 mph with the air conditioning on. And now this Jeep can actually do just that. To finish things out in the engine bay, I installed a new power steering pump and hoses, a new battery, custom-made battery cables (eliminates a common Jeep problem of grounding issues), new serpentine belt, new vacuum lines, K&N air filter, new fuel injectors from a 5.0 Mustang (4 injection ports instead of stock 1 port setup provides better efficiency and throttle response). I also installed a new distributor, a new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, a new crankshaft position sensor, new coolant temperature sensors, and a new throttle position sensor. Nearly all of these parts carry a lifetime warranty. To back up this motor, I installed an AW4 transmission from a 1997 Cherokee. This transmission had previously had a shift kit installed to improve its longevity and performance. Naturally, it got a full service with new fluid and filter before I installed it. I also rebuilt the neutral safety switch when the new transmission went in. Next, I turned my attention to the brakes. The 1992 Cherokee didn’t have great brakes from the factory, so I wanted to improve them. In addition to new brake pads and calipers up front, I installed an upgraded dual-diaphragm brake booster and matching master cylinder from a 1996 Cherokee, which made a huge difference over the stock single diaphragm booster. To make it even better, I decided to install the entire rear disc brake package from a 1997 Grand Cherokee. Now, this Jeep can really stop quickly, even with the over-size tires. I then focused on suspension and steering. I replaced the worn-out stock steering gear box with an upgraded steering box from a Dodge Durango V8. This is a slightly quicker ratio box, but more importantly it provides more turning force for the oversize front tires without having to strain hard on the steering wheel. I then replaced all of the steering components. Tie rod ends, ball joints, drag link, track bar, heavy duty control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and sway bar end links were all replaced. I upgraded the front axle shafts by replacing them with a set of front axle shafts from a Grand Cherokee with ABS, as they had much larger U-Joints. I also installed upgraded KYB Gas-A-Just monotube shocks on all 4 corners, which makes a big difference in on-road comfort, and off-road capability over the stock twin-tube shocks. This was all done to support the main goal, which was bigger tires. I built this Jeep knowing that it was going to see more time on road than off road, so I wanted to keep its center of gravity low while still running big tires and having amazing off-road capabilities. That being the case, the Jeep is only lifted 1.5 inches. I’m running poly-spacers up front, with full replacement leaf-spring packs in the rear. That 1.5 inch lift, along with trimmed fenders is enough to allow this Jeep to fully flex its axles and stuff its 31x10.50x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires without any rub or interference. This allows it to be as capable as a typical 4.5” lift Cherokee off-road, but be far more stable on road. I finished off the exterior modifications with a set of 1997 Cherokee door mirrors, which are much bigger than the stock 1992 mirrors, and also fold away and don’t break as easily as the stock mirrors. I gave the Jeep a new Delphi fuel pump and a new muffler, and then a full set of 3 skid plates (front steering skid, mid transfer case skid, and rear fuel tank skid) and a set of recovery hooks up front in case the Jeep ever does get stuck. Obviously I replaced all the fluids in the entire vehicle during this process. On the interior, I didn’t have to do much other than the seat and console swap I mentioned earlier. I did install the aftermarket remote keyless entry and remote start system, and I also replaced the ignition switch, the turn signal switch, and the wiper switch, as well as the blower motor and its resistor. The odometer on the Jeep shows 149,000 miles, but apparently someone replaced the odometer at some point because a vehicle history report shows that this Jeep had 230,000 miles on it in 2001, not that the mileage means much with all the recent work on it. It really does run like new. It makes great power and handles beautifully on and off road. Mechanically, you couldn’t possibly ask for anything more. This Jeep does not smoke or knock or make any strange noises, and unlike basically every Jeep on the road, it has NO FLUID LEAKS. That’s right, this thing will not drip oil in your driveway. Cosmetically, it is a little rough around the edges, but not horrible. I was content to drive it the way it is, but if you really wanted a show-stopper, it could be done with a little work. There are really only a few problems with it cosmetically. The first is the cut fenders. They’re just cut out with an angle grinder. The plan had been to install Bushwacker fender flares, but I never got around to it. The second problem is the clear coat. It’s not terrible yet, but it has begun to peel in a few places and will certainly get worse. Third, the windshield is cracked. It’s not bad, just a crack along the bottom that runs up through the middle of the passenger side. It was like that when I bought it and it isn’t in your field of vision so I never worried about it. The last problem is rust. It’s not horrible, but there are a few small rust holes around the rear wheel wells. Again, this didn’t really bother me and I had planned on just covering it up with Bushwacker flares, but never got around to it. If you’re looking for a show car, this isn’t it. It’s not terrible, but it’s no beauty queen either. It’s a Jeep. It’s tough, rugged, and crazy-reliable. This thing will go anywhere and will never let you down. If you’ve made it this far, I’m impressed. You must be interested. Although I have over $6,000 into this Jeep, I’m well aware it’s not worth anything like that. I’m asking $3,300 or best offer. I have the clean, clear title in hand, in my name, ready to go. Thanks for looking, Chris

Trim Laredo